I remember the first week I started my new job as an R&D lab tech, I was quickly thrown into a vendor meeting with my team to learn about all the latest, new skincare ingredients. To be honest, about 70% of the topics went right over my head, but one term caught my attention: neurocosmetics. I jotted it down in my notes, circled it twice, and made a mental note to explore it further later. I had never heard of the word before, and it left me curious.
What is a Neurocosmetic?
The term “neuro” refers to nerves or the nervous system. Simply put, neurocosmetics are products or ingredients that are designed to interact with the skin’s nervous system. The concept stems from the idea that the skin, our body’s largest organ, is more than just a barrier—it’s directly connected to the brain. This is often referred to as the skin-brain axis.
According to Dr. Aguirre, as shared in Allure, the skin is an extension of the brain. During early development in the womb, both the brain and skin originate from the same embryonic tissue: the ectoderm. This shared origin explains why our skin can visibly reflect our mental state. Think about it: when you’re stressed, anxious, or tired, your skin often shows it. Breakouts, dark circles, wrinkles, or dullness appear seemingly overnight. For me, a stressful week guarantees a hormonal cystic pimple every. single. time. It’s a familiar, albeit unwelcome, visitor.
We’re all familiar with the skin-brain connection on some level. Typically, this connection flows in one direction: from the brain to the skin. Stress triggers breakouts, exhaustion leads to dark under-eye circles, and anxiety pales our complexion. But could this link work the other way? Could the skin, rather than just reflecting our internal state, actually influence the brain? Is it possible that applying skincare products might not only improve our skin but also affect how we feel emotionally?
The Skin-Brain Axis: A Two-Way Street?
Neurocosmetics is a relatively new trend in the skincare world. Its recent rise aligns with the growing interest in holistic beauty products that claim to care not just for your skin but for your overall well-being. The idea of a serum that improves your complexion and lifts your mood is certainly appealing, but how would this work? Is there real science behind these claims? Or is it largely a marketing ploy?
What Brands Are Claiming
Here are a few examples of how brands at the forefront of neurocosmetics describe their products:
Three International: Visage Super Serum
Their neurocosmetic serum promotes “more than mere nourishment and renewal.” It claims to “enhance overall well-being with every application.”
Neurae: Harmonie Serum
Neurae self describes as a “new skincare brand based on the connection between skin and emotions.” A study on their Harmonie serum resulted in a “32% reduction in cutaneous cortisol levels (stress hormones) in the skin”
(scroll to the bottom for the english version)
I.D. Swiss Botanicals
Developed a range of natural CBD skincare products that activate the endocannabinoid system (ECS) in our bodies for improved skin and “overall well-being.”
Mindful Skincare or Marketing Hype?
Some neurocosmetic brands and their discourse around it heavily emphasize the experience of using their products. They suggest “mindful application,” encouraging users to massage the product into their skin slowly and pair it with wellness practices like meditation or deep breathing. While this approach is calming, couldn’t it apply to any skincare product? Wouldn’t a standard moisturizer feel similarly soothing if used mindfully?
This raises a critical question: Are these products truly neurocosmetics, or are they just banking on the principles of psychodermatology? I’m skeptical around the narrative of neurocosmetics magically making you less stressed or happier. If I’m having a rough day at work and feeling anxious, no serum is going to flip a mental switch and make everything okay. But I do see how the act of applying the serum can provide a small, soothing moment in the form of a “mindful” skincare routine. If the experience of massaging a calming product into my skin helps me unwind, then I can definitely see the benefit of that—but it’s not the product doing all the work; it’s me.
What Neurocosmetics Actually Do
As mentioned above, neurocosmetic ingredients interact with the skin’s nervous system (not necessarily your brain) in various ways. Some peptides relax facial muscles (similar to botox), while others block certain nerve pathways to reduce hypersensitivity in the skin.
How I have interpreted the mechanism of neurocosmetic through my brief research, is this: Traditional skincare works on the surface, focusing on repairing, hydrating, and exfoliating the skin. Neurocosmetics, however, go deeper by targeting neuroreceptors and neuropeptides that influence the skin’s response. In other words, while traditional skincare mainly addresses existing issues, neurocosmetics have the potential to prevent damage from occurring in the first place. It’s the difference between corrective and preventative care.
The Neurocosmetics Fallacy
Substances like in the wild indigo extract (Tephrosia purpurea), lowers cutaneous cortisol levels (a.k.a. stress hormones found in the skin), which is great for reducing dark circles and redness on your face. But here’s the catch: cutaneous cortisol levels don’t directly correlate to systemic cortisol levels in the bloodstream– meaning, reducing skin stress doesn’t necessarily reduce overall psychological stress.
Other ingredients claim to boost dopamine levels in the skin, suggesting a euphoric effect…which is also misleading. A peer reviewed journal by Vito Rizzi titled, “Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection” states that, yes, while dopamine in the skin plays an important role in functions like blood flow and barrier protection, it doesn’t necessarily impact mood the way brain dopamine does.
Unfortunately, there just haven’t been enough rigorous studies to confirm whether the connection between the brain and skin is truly a two-way street.
A Word of Caution
As I dug deeper into the claims made by these brands, I noticed that most don’t explicitly state their products physiologically reduce stress in the brain—which, honestly, is a relief. That said, the marketing of these products is often intentionally vague, making it easy for consumers (including me) unfamiliar with the science to misinterpret their claims. Many articles and blogs exaggerate the effects to make them seem groundbreaking. For example, in this one post by Zensa Skin Care, they write, “Neurocosmetics have the potential to influence our emotional state by interacting with neurotransmitters and neuropeptides that regulate mood and stress. This can lead to a reduction in cortisol, the hormone associated with stress, and promote a more relaxed and positive mood.”
This kind of messaging can be confusing for consumers. It blurs the line between addressing skin health and providing emotional benefits, leading people to believe the products have a more profound impact than they realistically do.
Moving Toward Transparency
Neurocosmetics represent an exciting frontier in skincare, but the science is still emerging. For now, brands and consumers alike must approach this trend with caution. As consumers, we should:
- Educate ourselves on what ingredients and technologies truly do.
- Question bold marketing claims and look for scientific evidence.
- Manage expectations and recognize the role of mindfulness in our skincare routines.
Brands, on the other hand, have a responsibility to be transparent about their claims. Overhyping effects without clear evidence can erode trust and mislead consumers. By fostering an environment of honesty and transparency, we can move towards a more mindful approach to beauty: one that values authenticity over fancy claims and buzzwords.
Enjoy Neurocosmetics for What They Are
To wrap this up, I think the best approach is to enjoy neurocosmetics for what they are: a part of a skincare routine that may help calm your mind through the simple act of taking care of yourself. The true power of self-care lies in the intention you bring to the ritual, not necessarily in the product itself.
As neurocosmetics continue to evolve, it will be exciting to see how the science develops—and whether one day, we might actually find products that can help balance our skin and our mind in a more profound way. But until then, stay smart, manage your expectations, and enjoy the process. Your brain and skin both deserve that.
Sources:
Rizzi, V.; Gubitosa, J.; Fini, P.; Cosma, P. Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation. Cosmetics 2021, 8, 66. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8030066
Valdesolo, Fiorella. “Can Your Skin Care Communicate With Your Brain?” Allure, 30 May 2024, www.allure.com/story/neurocosmetics-skincare-trend.
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